Yesterday we finally met some people. We
were sitting outside wondering how on earth a day that started off nice and
cool has suddenly turned into the seventh
boiling ring of hell. As we pondered the weather issue –ponder is a bit too
grand of a word. I doubt my brain is able to ponder anything at that
temperature, but I’m using it because it sounds nice- two boys came by on their
bicycles. They were around 14 or 15 years old, and I never got their names. I’m
not even sure they introduced themselves, so I’ll just call them Blonde and
Tall, because that’s what they looked like.
Blonde is clearly the leader. He is shorter
than Tall, but very chatty. Very, very, chatty. He also seems blissfully unaware
of the fact that Tina and I can’t make out anything that he’s saying, and Klaus
barely picks up a couple of words floating in the verbal waterfall pouring out
of his mouth.
Meanwhile, Tall stands back and looks at
the scene and smiles. He can see how absurd it is that we are completely lost,
and yet his mate carries on talking at the speed of light without as much as a
hand gesture to clue us in. As Blonde starts talking, Tina jumps up and offers
them cake. They are rather shy at her gesture, but grateful. The cake does
nothing to slow Blonde down, though. It’s amazing how he managed to down the
cake, and never stop talking with out once speaking with food in his mouth.
Luckilly, as soon as the cake is eaten, the boys run off, not without taking a
few long glances at the moped that sits glistening pink under the sun between
the bus and the caravan.
Later on that same day, the weather shifted
again, and there was a short storm. It was a very welcome shower, as neither
Tina nor I are dealing very well with the heat. Once it started to clear up, and
encouraged by the appearance of the boys, Tina and Klaus decided to head into
the village and try their luck at finding more chatty locals. Also they were
going to check out if the local store had any flour and milk, as we are running
low. No flour means no cake or bread, and no milk means no nice, frothy coffee,
and both of those things plus the heat result in very cranky versions of Klaus
and I. I have a feeling Tina can cope better with the lack of cake.
Their quest was unsuccessful. They did hear
people laughing, but from some inaccessible back yard. They found the local
watering hole, which consisted of 3 older, already drunk men drinking outside
the off licence, and the shop was closed. They came back to more bad news, as
the gallery had developed another leak on the roof, but at least tea was ready.
We wiped dry a couple of chairs and sat outside to eat. The weather was warm
again. As we were finishing, the boys appeared from behind the caravan, although
this time, they were joined by a third one, Skinny, and they came bearing
gifts.
After exchanging Dober Dans -Tina is
already fetching the cake-, Blonde opens up his backpack and pulls out a Coke
bottle filled with plum schnapps, a massive 2 litre bottle of milk -oh yes,
nice real cow’s milk!- and quite a large chunk of pancetta. I have a feeling
all these are homemade goodies. Tina guesses that they went home, told their
mums about the cake and they made them come over with gifts. Whatever the case
was, the gifts were met with a second helping of cake, and we were again
showered by Blonde’s monologue. Initially, Skinny helps out with a couple of
English words –I have a feeling he understands more than he lets on-, but after
a while it becomes evident that he’s here more to see his mate’s performance
than to help us out with his language skills. Same as Tall, he stands back, and
they both stare and giggle at the scene in front of them.
I have no clue as to what in the world
Blonde is talking about. Tina just stares at him in awe, and then back at me,
as if to make sure that this is really happening. Klaus takes on the challenge.
This is good, because for some reason, Blonde seems more interested in talking
to him than us. Eventually we learn that someone in Blonde’s family, or his
neighbourhood, or school… anyways, one Blonde’s acquaintances saw Klaus
struggling uphill with the moped when it broke down yesterday. It seems that
this foreigner guy walking a bublegum pink moped uphill in a paragliding helmet
and coat under the scorching sun made an impression on the locals. Blonde’s
acquaintance took a photo, and Blonde wanted to come and see the wonderful,
breed between bicycle and motorbike in person.
Klaus sees how exited the boy is and lets
him go for a ride. The poor pink moped doesn’t even know what hit it. One
minute it is calmly resting by the caravan, the next it is being pushed to its
maximum speed (of 40 km/h) by a speed-crazed teenager. Blonde goes all the way
to the road and comes back. Poor ping moped is put back to rest, and we sit
down. The boys remain standing. They know the good part is coming. All of a
sudden, Blonde develops the skill of hand-gesturing, and from here on, I know
precisely what is happening. He wants to buy the moped.
He offers Klaus 300 Kuna. Klaus says no, of
course. Blonde, speaking like lightning and aided by skinny, says that he’ll
give it a better life. He’ll fix it properly –apparently he thinks that traveling
artists’ mechanical skills end at fixing breakdowns with stale chewing gum- and
give it a dignified coat of paint, brown. None of this bubblegum pink nonsense
for such a cool, vintage vehicle. He clearly is missing the plot here, and we
all almost faint at the thought of painting the poor moped. Klaus says definitely
no, that it’s Tina’s moped, and she should decide. Blonde looks at Tina and
tries to find a way to sweeten the deal. How about 300 Kuna and some diesel for
the bus?
No.
How about the 300 and diesel and his bike?
No.
–Oh, come on! You guys have a bus! You
don’t need a moped!-
-Well, you don’t either, you have a bike.-
-This thing?- He says pointing to his
pretty decent bike –This thing doesn’t even have an engine! I need something
with an engine!- Bless him, he just wants to be the cool kid in town (not that
there’s that much of a competition). We explain to him that the speed of the
moped is directly comparable to that of the bike (especially going down), so he
would be better off sticking to the bike. Blonde is not having it. He pulls out
his phone and lays it next to Tina’s. 300 and an upgrade?
No!
He picks up the phone and shows us a photo
of him riding a cow (probably the source of the milk). He says –The moped for
my cow! You can even ride it, see?-
I have been laughing quite a lot thus far,
but after that my eyes start to water. I can’t help myself –A goat! A goat! Ask
him for a goat!- We can make delicious cheese, and the carbon impact is a lot
smaller that that of the cow. Apparently goat farts are far less noxious than
cow farts. Sorry, back to the subject…
So, after my interjection, Tina gets
creative -A sheep! The 300 plus a sheep!-
-The 300 plus a sheep! For that rickety
pink moped! No, no no. That’s too much, besides I don’t even have a sheep.
Somehow the conversation splits. He carries
on bartering with Tina, but he also starts talking to Klaus about tractors –what
else! I just sit back and laugh. There is Blonde, carrying two parallel
conversations with two different people who don’t really understand him. Behind
him, Tall and Skinny just sit on their bikes and laugh at Blonde’s failed
trading attempts. Easily enough, both conversations get mixed up, and after
seeing a photo of Blonde riding a tractor, Tina yells –A tractor! The moped for
a tractor!- Blonde grows a little pale. He’s so close! If only he could barter
off his dad’s tractor, all would be perfect! Who needs a tractor in the
countryside anyways? –No, I can’t do that, the tractor is worth so much more
than the moped- He says. Tina’s answer is simple –If you get me a tractor, we
have a deal.- She is already picturing snail races between the bus and the tractor.
I personally think it’s a close call. The tractor would certainly win uphill,
but downhill the bus can pick up a lot of speed.
While the three of us are discussing the
odds of the bus-versus-tractor race, Blonde starts to become more resolute. His
eyes glisten a little. All of a sudden Tall and Skinny sense the danger and
hold him back before he agrees to trade off his dad’s tractor. In a masterful
act of manipulation, they start discussing tractor brands to distract Blonde.
All of a sudden, it feels like I’m watching the Croatian version of Candice
Breitz’s From Aiwa to Zen (again, Google). Tina and I get bored and start
clearing up. What I have described on three pages has already gone on for over
an hour and Blonde is quite a relentless character, so we try to sneak away. As
we are putting things away we hear Tall and Skinny pulling Blonde away. Then we
hear Klaus saying –No deal, no moped, no deal!- Just in case some form of
agreement might have been lost in translation.
That was a rather exhausting eve, but we
are still laughing at it. As we sat out melting in the sun this afternoon,
Blonde and Tall popped in again. Another 2 litre bottle of milk comes out of
the rucksack. Ok, now it looks like we’ll be making our own cheese as well.
Klaus is ill in bed, so without out interpreter Tina and I are pretty much in
the dark. I give them cake, and spend the next 10 minutes trying to figure out
that they are offering us water in case we need it. In the figuring out
process, I even gave them water. Poor Blonde realised he was going to get
nowhere with me. He tried to facebook me, but I think my account is rather
private, so he didn’t find it. Another disappointment. Finally, he moved on to
the moped. A-Ha! He came to see whether Tina had seen the light and decided to
sell it on, and let it have a more dignified life. Poor boy, he’ll never get
it. He gets yet another refusal, and sadly the boys leave amidst their
disappointment. It’s ok, there will be other chances for Blonde. Maybe next
year Tina and Klaus will meet him again, and he’ll be driving a bubble-gum-pink
tractor.
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